Baruntse Expedition is the one for the Himalaya enthusiasts. It also makes for a great training peak for those who wish to climb 8,00m and higher mountains. Our Baruntse Expedition is 40-days-long and involves climbing Mera Peak as well. Baruntse is 7,129m/23389ft tall and falls in the Khumbu/Everest region. Climbing Baruntse is an adventurous journey which is made possible and easier by our experienced mountaineering guides and porters. Adventure Club Trek has been organizing expeditions since 2008.
Know your Mountain: Baruntse (7,129m/23389ft)
Baruntse is a 7,129m high mountain in the Khumbu region in eastern Nepal. Located in between Lhotse (8,516m/27,940 ft) and Makalu (8,485 meters (27,838 ft)), Baruntse is bounded by the Barun Glacier on the east, Hunku Glacier on the south and by the Imja Glacier on the northwest. Baruntse is an all year around the snow-capped peak. Sir Edmund Hillary led the team from New Zealand were the first ever to climb Baruntse, they made the summit on May 30, 1954, via the south ridge. Baruntse is a popular peak to climb before attempting more technical climbs like Mt. Everest.
Climb Baruntse 2018 with Adventure Club Trek
Our Baruntse expedition starts in Kathmandu. We spend a day sightseeing around the city. We believe that getting familiar with the local culture helps in better adjustment to a foreign country. We spend Day 1-4 in Kathmandu sightseeing and preparing for the expedition to come. From day 5-15 we will be trekking the more remote and isolated parts of the Khumbu region to reach Mera peak base camp, cross the Mera La ( pass) and eventually climb Mera Peak (6,654meters). This section of the trek will begin with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Climbing Mera Peak is a great acclimatization exercise for the Baruntse summit. On Day 11 we take an acclimatization day rest at Thaknak.Then, we trek down to Khongma Dingma at 4,850m/15912 ft. It is a highly picturesque stay at Khongma Dingma with the mountains surrounding us all around.
We trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5300m/17388 ft) and camp there for a full day. Day 19-31 is our climbing period. We make the climb via South Ridge unlike Sir Edmund Hillary’s team did as the South-East Ridge they chose takes us through steep sections of ice and large ice cliff at around 7,000 m.
We make two high camps above the advanced base camp. The advanced base camp is set up at 6,000m. We set this first and next we set out camp 1 which is at 6,135 m and camp 2 is set at 6,400m. Within-Day 19-31 the mountaineering/expedition guide/s will teach you usage of all mountaineering equipment. We will also acclimatize during this period and once the leading guide is confident in the weather and the fitness of the climbers, we will submit the Baruntse peak. Not ready for Baruntse or a 7,000m peak? Try Mera Peak Climbing-17 Days or Ama Dablam-30 Days. Here’s a full list of trekking expeditions and expeditions we provide.
Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), you will be welcomed by a representative from Adventure Club Trek. After sorting out your custom formalities (visa and so on), you will be then transferred to your respective hotel in Adventure Club Trek’s private vehicle and give you some time to freshen up. After this, you will attend an orientation about your trek led by the trekking leader over a welcome dinner. Overnight at hotel.
Today, we go on a sightseeing tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city. We start the program after breakfast, first visiting the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath. Though non-Hindus are not allowed inside the main premises of the temple we are allowed to visit the cremation site and surrounding areas. We then head to Boudhanath, considered one of the largest stupas in Asia due to the massive mandala that surrounds the main dome. The smell of Himalayan incense and locals doing kora(making clockwise rounds of the stupa) gives you a little insight on Buddhist culture. Our next stop is Swayambhunath also known as the Monkey Temple, located on top of a hill. The stupa is similar to Boudhanath, but here the stupa is surrounded by many temples and shrines. Some of the temples date back to the medieval Lichchhavi period. Our final stop is Kathmandu Durbar square which is a fine example of Newari architecture. The premises of the Durbar square house many temples and royal palaces, however, most of the temples and building were destroyed by the 2015 earthquake and are being renovated. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Today, we fill out all the necessary forms and fulfill other required formalities. We also visit the Ministry of Tourism where we will be briefed on the rules of mountaineering expedition. Our expedition leader will also check our climbing gears for any faults. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
This is the last day before we head out on our expedition. Make sure you have stocked up all the required items for the next 4-5 weeks. If you need to buy anything pending on your list, make sure you get it today. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
We wake up early in the morning and drive to TIA to board our flight to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. It about half an hour trip flying besides the snow clad mountains. Upon arrival, our team will unload and sort the luggage until that time we can take a quick stroll around the small town of Lukla. One porter will be assigned for two trekkers before we start our trek to Chutok. The trail to our destination takes us through a forest to the village of Shurke. We continue on the trail to arrive at another village named Pakhapani. Further we pass many small villages and lush green forest to finally arrive at Chutok. This village offers magnificent views of the mountains including Tang Ragi Tu, Kongde Ri and Khatang. Overnight in a teahouse at Chutok.
A short walk away from Chutok we come across a wooden bridge. Upon crossing the bridge the trail climbs up towards Kari La Hill(Pass). The path leading to the pass is slippery so pay strict attention to where you going. We then pass by a small village which is followed by a walk through rhododendron and bamboo forest. The magnificent views of Dudh Kosi River and Dudh Kund Hima accompany us from time to time until we arrive at Pangkongma. Overnight in a teahouse at Pangkongma.
After breakfast we begin our ascend to Pangkongma La(Pass) at 3,175m which is also known as the gateway to Hinku Valley. Along the way we are rewarded with fantastic views of the south face of Mera Peak(6064m) and Naulekh Peak(6362m). Upon crossing the pass we descend to arrive at the village of Shibuche passing through pine and rhododendron forest. We then head north towards the Hinku Khola to eventually cross it. Before we reach Kurke we pass by a pasture land. Overnight in a teahouse at Kurke.
Today’s trek begins with crossing Surke La(Pass) at 3,085m. The trail then ascends passing through Phokte Village, Chalem Kharka and Danda Kharka to finally reach our destination, Thuli Kharka. On the way we may catch a glimpse of the Red Panda. Overnight in tented camp at Thuli Kharka.
Most part of today’s trek is downhill. As we head down from Thuli Kharka we come across a vantage point which provides an excellent view of the Hinku Valley along with the south face of Mera Peak. The trail then takes us through a forest of tall pine trees and rhododendron descending towards the Hinku Valley. We walk along the bank of the river until we reach our camp site. Overnight in a tented camp at Khothe.
The trek starts following the trail along the ridge of Hinku Khola with Mera Peak dominating the skyline. We walk past Gondishung, a summer settlement of herders. As we continue forward we come across Lungsum Gba Gompa, a 200 year old gompa. Here we can the Mera Peak scripted on a rock along with the route. We enjoy spectacular views of Peak 43(6,700m) and Kusum Kanguru(6,367m). A short walk from here takes us to Thaknak. Overnight in a tented camp at Tangnag.
Today is set aside for acclimatization which will help our body to adjust quickly at high altitudes. It is a significant part of the expedition as it ensures a successful and pleasant experience overall. We hike up to Charpate Himal Glacier which takes around three hours from Thaknak village. We enjoy a close up of the Charpate Himal which regarded holy by the Sherpas and they even worship it. Also, Mera North can be seen from here as well. After soaking in the serene mountain views, we head back to Thaknak for a good night’s sleep.
After leaving Thaknak the trail continues along the moraine of Dig Glacier to Khare. This path offer mind blowing views of Charpate Himal making the trek a pleasant one. Before we reach our campsite at Khare we have to climb to the snout of Shar Glacier and Hinku Nup followed by a even steeper climb towards Khare. Overnight in a tented camp at Khare.
Wake up and have breakfast with spectacular north face views of Mera Peak in the backdrop. We overcome the Mera La (Pass) at 5,415m which is of course the most challenging part of today’s trip. The trek starts with a walk on boulder strewn path towards Mera Peak Base Camp. It is a steep climb to the base camp which is followed by much steeper climb on a rocky surface to Mera La. Crampons and ice axe will be used to overcome the steep climb to Mera La. Once there you will be rewarded with spectacular views of Mera Peak, Kusum Kanguru, Peak 43, Kangtega, Malanphulan and Naulekh among others.Overnight in a tented camp at Mera La.
The trail to High Camp is a gradual climb inclined at an angle of 25-30 degrees. However, we need to be very careful as there some crevasses that can’t be seen. Hence to avoid falling into any such crevasses we use ropes. Throughout our trek to the high camp we are surrounded by mountains.
Once at the high camp views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Baruntse, Lhotse, Makalu and Chamlung give us a snow clad welcome. Overnight in a tented camp at High Camp.
Today is one of the big days. We summit the Mera Peak. Our target is to reach the top before noon, hence we start early at around 1 or 2am. After early breakfast we pack up and head out. We walk slow to avoid tiring ourselves and at all times we are roped. As the dawn breaks we get the view of the summit which temporarily hides behind a ridge as we climb higher. After overcoming the ridge we are on the final stretch towards the summit. A fixed rope is used for the final climb if required.
All our hard work pays off with the mind boggling views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Kangchenjunga and other six thousanders. After soaking in the beauty of the mountains we retrace our steps back to the High Camp and make our way to Mera Peak Base Camp for a good night’s sleep.
We head down to Kongma Dingma from Mera Peak Base Camp. Overnight in a tented camp at Kongma Dingma.
It’s a long day of trek to reach Baruntse Base Camp. First, we trek to Seto Pokhari (White Lake). The trail takes us to the upper yak pasture of Hongu Valley and as we continue forward Chamlang greets us with its spectacular beauty. Baruntse also makes itself visible but it is mostly Chamlang that dominates the skyline. The path is wide and straight with gradual ascent and the most fascinating part is that we are walking towards the epicenter of some of the world’s highest mountains. After reaching Seto Pokhari we head towards Baruntse Base Camp. On our way to the base camp we cross a wide grassy valley after which the terrain gradually turns rocky. Along the way we see Hunku Peak and Peak 41. Overnight in a tented camp at Baruntse Base Camp
This is the second day set aside for acclimatization. We carry some load up to the Baruntse Advanced Base Camp and back to the base camp. This will help us to adjust better and warm up our body for the coming days. Overnight in a tented camp at Baruntse Base Camp.
The Climbing period has no fixed day to day itienary as it will be decided by the expedition leader and the guide. They will decide the day to day routine including the time to be spent on the advanced base camp and the higher camps, based on the physical fitness, health and the condition of the climbers. So before we attempt to summit Mt. Baruntse we acclimatize setting up two camps excluding the advanced base camp. The first camp that is Camp 1 will be set at 6,135m and the other one Camp 2 at 6,400m. After we have spent enough time at these two camps then only we go for the summit. FIrst we will set up an advanced base camp at 6,000m at the foot of South East Ridge. We will make constant trips from the base camp to advanced base camp stocking it up with food and other necessary stuff.
Camp I (6,135m): This camp is located on a glacial plateau. We get here by climbing the south-east ridge leading to the West Col. It is pretty much a gradual climb to the West Col, however, a fixed rope is used to overcome an ice cliff at an angle of 50 degree. After crossing the cliff we reach the spot of our Camp I. Like before, we go down to the advance base camp and climb up again to Camp I, stocking up the camp with food. This also helps in acclimatizing. Once the timing to climb up to Camp I is constant, we advance further to Camp II.
Camp II (6,400m): A fixed rope is needed to get to Camp II which the Sherpa guides will do beforehand. On the way we come across a long glacier. Using a fixed rope, we overcome the glacier and as we near a small col on the South East ridge, the slope steepens. After climbing the slope we reach the location of our Camp II.We push for the summit from Camp II. We start our expedition early at around 1-2am. After an early breakfast, we head out climbing up a steep ice wall angled at 45 degree leading us to a small col at 6,500m. Along the way we also ascend through a short rocky section but the main challenge is overcoming the sharp ice shoulder at 7,000m. Conquering this will lead us to the summit ridge. We climb up the ridge which eventually narrows to the Baruntse summit at 7,129m. Enjoy the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga among others. We then head towards Camp I and spend a night there. The next day we head down to the base camp.c
We spend an extra day at Baruntse Base Camp, During the morning we rest for most of the time and in the afternoon a cleanliness programme is scheduled. We clean up the surrounding of the base camp with an attempt to keep the natural beauty intact. Again we rest for the remainder of the day. Overnight in a tented camp at Baruntse Base Camp.
We descend back to Seto Pokhari from the base camp. We follow the same route we took earlier to get to our campsite. Overnight in a tented camp at Seto Pokhari.
We retrace our steps back to Mera Base Camp. We pass through Kongma Dingma to finally arrive at Mera Peak Base Camp. Overnight in a tented camp.
Today is a pleasant walk downhill as we are rewarded with spectacular mountain views through our trek to Kothe. First, we trek down to Khare enjoying the beauty of Charpate Himal. Then we trek to Thaknak and from here Mera peak, Kusum Kanguru and Peak 43 accompany us until we reach Kothe. Overnight in a tented camp at Kothe.
Today we retrace our steps back to Thuli Kharka. It is mostly an uphill climb and along the way we may spot a Red Panda. Overnight in a tented camp at Thuli Kharka.
We trek all the way down to Lukla passing through Kurke, Pangkongma and Chutok. You can celebrate the success with a drink or two at Lukla. Overnight in a teahouse at Lukla.
We board an early morning flight to Kathmandu from Lukla. There are no planned activities for the day once you reach Kathmandu, so you can spend the day roaming around the city or if you choose to rest you can stay at your hotel. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
Today we spend the day celebrating a successful summit of Mt. Baruntse. It is also a way of saying thank you to expedition leader and the guides. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
Adventure Club Trek will manage a farewell drive to the international airport for your final flight departure. Meeting you and serving you was a wonderful experience over the weeks. We are sure you enjoyed a wonderful holiday in beautiful Nepal. We hope you will remember us in the years ahead.
Flight Delay in Kathmandu and Lukla
The unpredictability of the weather in mountain areas directly affects the flights to and from Lukla. The Twin Otter planes that are used for transport from and to Lukla are reasonably reliable in good weather conditions. But, the flights may be delayed or canceled due to technical problems and extreme weather conditions.To ensure you stay on your schedule in case the Twin Otter flight cancels or delays too far, we can charter you a helicopter. While the helicopter can fly at the visibility of 15,000m, the Twin Otters require 5,000m visibility, according to Nepal Civil Aviation rules.
You can pay for the helicopter in US cash, credit cards or traveler’ cheques directly to our Kathmandu office. We provide a receipt for the payment which you can present to claim the amount back from your travel insurance company. Helicopter charges range from a minimum of US$500 to a maximum of US$2500. Also, we recommend you land in Kathmandu a day before we start the trek. You have enough time to buy trekking gears and beat off the jet lag. Having a few days extra left after your trek is also an excellent way to ensure you don’t miss your international flight in case of difficulties during the trek which might lengthen your trip. It also gives you a way to beat the flight cancellation to or from Lukla in case of severe weather.
Note: Your safety is of the utmost concern whilst you are traveling with Adventure Club Trek. We will make every effort possible to follow the original itinerary but we reserve the right to change that itinerary if a segment of it becomes a safety issue. Certain mountain regions are remote, natural disasters can happen, weather conditions can decline and there can be illness or an injury. To avoid dangerous situations we may occasionally have to make changes to the itinerary to ensure everyone’s safety. That having been said, Adventure Club Trek will strive to provide you with the best possible trekking experience and to keep your safety our number one priority. In case, the flight delay/cancellation happens at the start of the trip and it goes so long that it disturbs your onward travel schedule, you are free to choose an alternative trip: such a trek in the Annapurna, Langtang, or any other regions.
Prior to all the treks and expeditions, Adventure Club Trek hosts a pre-trip meeting in Kathmandu. The primary purpose of the meeting is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming trek and to introduce other team members. The meeting covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatization and usually involves a hike and some skills training. Pre-trip meeting is very important in order to have a better preparation of the trekking.