Ama Dablam is the third most popular expedition peak in the Himalaya. It has two peaks; the main peak at 6,812 m /(22,349 ft and the lower western peak at 6,170 meters/ 20,243 ft. Often referred to as the ‘’Matterhorn of the Himalaya’’for its dramatic edges and peak, Ama Dablam is the mountain that dominates the skyline during the Everest Trek, up until Tengboche at least.
The name Ama Dablam translates to ‘’mother’s necklace’’. Ama means mother; the long ridges of the mountain are compared to mother’s arm protecting her child and the hanging glacier is compared to Dablam, which translates to a pendant worn by sherpa women. On 13 March 1961, Mike Gill from New Zealand, Barry Bishop from the USA, Mike Ward from the UK, and Wally Romanes from New Zealand became the first to climb Ama Dablam. The climb via the Southwest Ridge, the most popular route even today.
Who can climb Ama Dablam?
Ama Dablam is without a doubt one of the most technical peaks, for its height, to climb. It is ideal for a seasoned, all-around mountaineer, who wants to climb his/her first mountain. For those who have already been to Nepal and trekked the high Himalayan terrain, want to do something more higher or difficult than Island or Mera Peak, Ama Dablam expedition is a perfect choice. Ama Dablam looks quite demanding from afar. However, the terrain on the mountain is great and gets consistently easier. You still need an enthusiastic head for high altitudes and it is also necessary that you like exposure.
Climb Ama Dablam Autumn 2018 with Adventure Club Trek
Adventure Club Trek has been officially organizing expeditions in the Himalaya since 2008. We work with guides and mountaineers who have over 15 years of experience in the industry, use advanced climbing gears and train our team with attention to detail before the climb. Climb Ama Dablam Autumn 2018 with Adventure Club Trek for an experience of a lifetime. Our 30-day-long Ama Dablam expedition begins in Kathmandu with a sightseeing tour of the city. Knowing the people and culture of the country starts you off the right foot. Then, we fly to the Lukla, it is the starting point of our trek. We take an acclimatization break at Namche Bazaar.
We trek the classic Everest Base Camp Trail till Tengboche, then we deviate to Debuche to Pherice instead of going towards Dingboche. We acclimatize at Pheriche for a day. The next day we leave for the Ama Dablam Base camp which is at 4570m/15,000ft. We stay at the base camp for another day, acclimatizing and training.
The core part of the expedition is in between day 11-25. In this duration, we set up camps and climb back and forth until our guides approve that we are ready for the summit.
We summit Ama Dablam via its South-West Ridge, which is one of the most aesthetically pleasing climbing routes in the Himalaya. The summit is essentially an ice field and provides a panoramic view of the Khumbu mountain spread. We head down to the base camp after the summit. Then, we make our way down to Namche to Lukla and finally back to Kathmandu. Adventure Club Trek is proud to offer Baruntse Expedition- 40 Days, Pumori Expedition-30 Days, and Everest Expedition-67 Days.
Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), you will be welcomed by a representative from Adventure Club Trek. After sorting out your custom formalities (visa and so on), you will be then transferred to your respective hotel in Adventure Club Trek’s private vehicle and give you some time to freshen up. After this, you will attend an orientation about your trek led by the trekking leader over a welcome dinner. Overnight at hotel.
We drive to TIA early in the morning to board our flight to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. It is a 30-minute-long scenic flight. We might catch a few glimpses of the spectacular snow clad mountains including Mt. Everest. In Lukla, our guides will assign one porter per two trekkers. As other members of the team sort our luggage, we have some time to kill during which we can roam around the small town of Lukla. Our trek to Phakding starts with a descent towards the Dudh Koshi River. We walk downhill until we arrive at the main trail to Namche Bazaar, just above Chauri Kharka. We walk past the small village of Ghat before reaching Phakding. Overnight in a teahouse in Phakding.
Our day starts off with a trek through pine and fir forest, which then continues along the banks of Dudh Kosi River. Mt. Thamserku accompanies us till we arrive at the entry point of Sagarmatha National Park.
The trail becomes steeper after we enter the National Park and along the way we catch the first glimpse of Everest peeking from the Nuptse-Lhotse ridge. Before arriving at Namche Bazaar, we cross the Hillary Bridge, the highest among the five suspension bridges we cross today. Overnight in a teahouse in Namche Bazaar.
Namche Bazaar, also is known as the Gateway to Everest, is a perfect place to acclimatize as it is located over 3,000m. It provides a great view of the Khumbu mountains. A few short treks are planned for the day to adjust our body better to the changing altitude. First, we take a short trip to Everest View hotel for a close up view of the mighty Everest. On our way down we take a detour and visit the Syanboche Airport and Sherpa Museum. We also explore the Khumjung village where the infamous monastery is located. The monastery houses the ‘’scalp of a Yeti.’’ We return to Namche for a good night’s sleep.
Today, we trek to Debuche, located at a short distance from Tengboche. This small village is situated in a magnificent location with pine and rhododendron forest, a snow-capped ridge on one side, and Dudh Koshi gorge on the other. We start off along the banks of Dudh Koshi, arrive at Punki and then the trail continues uphill towards Tengboche. Mountains like Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Thamserku, Nuptse, and Everest give us a snow-clad welcome at Tengboche. While at Tengboche, we visit the Tengboche Monastery which houses a twenty foot Buddha statue. We observe a prayer ceremony at the monastery, if we arrive before the start. We then follow the trail downhill to Debuche for a good night’s sleep.
Our destination for the day is Pheriche. As we set out on our trek, we first arrive at Pangboche, a village that offers spectacular views of mountains like Everest, Thamserku, Ama Dablam, and Kongde range among others. We then walk through a forest to reach Shomare. Now, the greenery gradually disappears and we find ourselves walking on a stone-strewn path. We walk on a nopen glacial valley on a rather flat trail, a good change for the legs. Overnight in Pheriche at a teahouse.
Another acclimatization day before we head out to higher altitudes. After breakfast, we go out on a short trek up to a ridge nearby. The ridge offers spectacular views of the mountains on one side and on the other side, we can see the whole od Pheriche valley. After basking in the magnificent scenery we head down to Pheriche. Along the way, we can see the village of Dingboche. Overnight in a teahouse at Pheriche.
We retrace our steps back to Pangboche and upon reaching the village we cross a bridge over the Dudh Koshi River which marks the start of our trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. We ascend along the ridgeline until we reach the Base Camp. Located at 4,570m, most of the routes are visible from the camp. Overnight in a tented camp at Ama Dablam Base Camp.
We spend a day at the base camp to adjust better to the thinning air at high altitude. Also, we go around for practice climbs using our climbing gears such as crampons, ice-axe, ascender, and harness. We also train to use the ropes to climb up and down. Overnight in a tented camp at Base Camp.
Starting today there is no day to day itinerary as the expedition leader and our guides will determine what to do on a daily basis depending on our physical fitness and the weather. The most common route to the summit is via Southwest ridge. There are three camps set for this expedition and we spend most of the time climbing from one to another camp, up and down before the final push to the summit. First, we leave the base camp to Camp 1 at 5,700m. We spend the night there to acclimatize and then return to the base camp. It is the only time we return to the base before we summit Ama Dablam.
Camp 1(5,700m): We walk on grassy moraine ridges, along the way passing through a saddle. The trail then turns north towards Camp 1. The ascent is a technical one, in fact, compared to all three camps this one is the most technical one. We walk on rocky ground overcoming boulders to arrive at Camp 1, located on a ridge. Only there are only four-five tents on the ridge.
Camp 2(5,900m): The trail to Camp 2 comprises of rock, snow, and ice. First, we overcome a rocky bowl and then ascend a steep ridge, changing sides alternatively. We use old fixed lines and if necessary fix new ropes, which will be used for both ascent and descent. After overcoming a rocky climb, we come across Yellow Tower, a 15m slope just below Camp 2. Climbing this tower is the hardest part of the day.
Camp 3(6,300m): The path to Camp 3 is strewn with rock, snow, and ice. We used the existing fixed lines and fix new ones if necessary. We take the gully between Grey Tower and rock formations to finally arrive at Camp 3.
We spend around 10-12 days ascending and descending from camp to camp. This will help us acclimatize and also train our body for the final climb. Once we are able to walk from camp to camp in a short time we are ready to summit Ama Dablam. On the day of our summit from Camp 3, we have to tackle steep climb on snow and ice including a hanging glacier. Once at the top of Mt. Ama Dablam (6,812 m/ 22,349 ft), we enjoy 360-degree views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Tent Peak, and Makalu among others. After a successful summit, we head down to the base camp for a good night’s sleep. Overnight in a tented camp at Base Camp.
We retrace our steps back to Namche Bazaar. First on our descent, we arrive at the village of Pangboche, passing through rhododendron and juniper forest accompanied by Mt. Ama Dablam. Then, we head towards Imja Khola followed by a walk through a forest to Tengboche. The trail again continues through a forest leading to a bridge over the Dudh Kosi River. Next, we arrive at Sansa and then finally at Namche Bazaar. Rest you tired legs and if you like you can even celebrate a successful summit with a few drinks or any beverage of your choice. Overnight in a teahouse at Namche Bazaar.
On our way back to Lukla, we cross a few suspension bridges and walk past a few villages. Overnight in a teahouse in Lukla.
We board an early morning flight to Kathmandu from Tenzing Hillary Airport. As there are no planned activities for the rest of the day, you can opt to rest or spend the day strolling around the city.Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
An extra day is set aside for any delays in flight or cancellation of the flight due to bad weather. In case this day is not utilized it can be spent as a leisure day in Kathmandu. Adventure Club Trek will host a farewell dinner where you can meet the guides and expedition leader before you head out to your home country.Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
Adventure Club Trek will manage a farewell drive to the international airport for your final flight departure. Meeting you and serving you was a wonderful experience over the weeks. We are sure you enjoyed a wonderful holiday in beautiful Nepal. We hope you will remember us in the years ahead.
Flight Delay in Kathmandu and Lukla
The unpredictability of the weather in mountain areas directly affects the flights to and from Lukla. The Twin Otter planes that are used for transport from and to Lukla are reasonably reliable in good weather conditions. But, the flights may be delayed or canceled due to technical problems and extreme weather conditions.To ensure you stay on your schedule in case the Twin Otter flight cancels or delays too far, we can charter you a helicopter. While the helicopter can fly at the visibility of 15,000m, the Twin Otters require 5,000m visibility, according to Nepal Civil Aviation rules.
You can pay for the helicopter in US cash, credit cards or traveler’ cheques directly to our Kathmandu office. We provide a receipt for the payment which you can present to claim the amount back from your travel insurance company. Helicopter charges range from a minimum of US$500 to a maximum of US$2500. Also, we recommend you land in Kathmandu a day before we start the trek. You have enough time to buy trekking gears and beat off the jet lag. Having a few days extra left after your trek is also an excellent way to ensure you don’t miss your international flight in case of difficulties during the trek which might lengthen your trip. It also gives you a way to beat the flight cancellation to or from Lukla in case of severe weather.
Note: Your safety is of the utmost concern whilst you are traveling with Adventure Club Trek. We will make every effort possible to follow the original itinerary but we reserve the right to change that itinerary if a segment of it becomes a safety issue. Certain mountain regions are remote, natural disasters can happen, weather conditions can decline and there can be illness or an injury. To avoid dangerous situations we may occasionally have to make changes to the itinerary to ensure everyone’s safety. That having been said, Adventure Club Trek will strive to provide you with the best possible trekking experience and to keep your safety our number one priority. In case, the flight delay/cancellation happens at the start of the trip and it goes so long that it disturbs your onward travel schedule, you are free to choose an alternative trip: such a trek in the Annapurna, Langtang, or any other regions.
Prior to all the treks and expeditions, Adventure Club Trek hosts a pre-trip meeting in Kathmandu. The primary purpose of the meeting is to provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the forthcoming trek and to introduce other team members. The meeting covers topics as diverse as personal equipment and acclimatization and usually involves a hike and some skills training. Pre-trip meeting is very important in order to have a better preparation of the trekking.